Until yesterday, I thought my most interesting backseat experiences had been in Istanbul. Marilu and I were there together and shared one hair-raising drive in a taxi; she spent another alone, emerging from the cab looking like she'd seen a ghost (her own). The traffic here is intense, not for it's speed, but for density and variety of wheeled and hoofed participants. They are masters of the merge, with lots of chaotic traffic circles and scooters flying into traffic from side streets. Best not to look watch too closely.